All objects in a composition have a shape or outline, this is what we commonly call, shape. For example, a box is a cube made up of square surfaces. A plate is a circle made up of concentric circles. These same objects are all treated differently when it comes to their shading to make them look realistic.
This shading is what causes the objects in a composition to appear three-dimensional.
Let's think for a minute about the different shapes we know; square, circle, rectangle, square etc. These are called the surface outlines.
Surface Shapes themselves are made up of shading inside of outlines to make your objects look: flat, half round, cylindrical, domed or concave.
Shading is different from shadows. As we learned a few weeks ago, the cast shadow of an object occurs when the path of light from the light source is interrupted or blocked. Shadows seldom fade out as shading does. Shading is actually on the object itself and again is depicted from how and where the light hits your object.
Shading allows you as the artist to distinctly indicate the surface shape of your object. Surface shapes are depicted by the contrast between shaded and highlighted areas. Shading fades gradually from light to dark. When shading, always be aware of the location of your light source.
The following surface shape shading ‘rules’ imagine that their is a fixed light source in the upper left corner that is coming down at an angle. These rules are foundational. They can be used like a formula for shading. Every object you render will have one or more of these surface shapes. Once you know them, you will be able to render any scene you want.
This shading is what causes the objects in a composition to appear three-dimensional.
Let's think for a minute about the different shapes we know; square, circle, rectangle, square etc. These are called the surface outlines.
Surface Shapes themselves are made up of shading inside of outlines to make your objects look: flat, half round, cylindrical, domed or concave.
Shading is different from shadows. As we learned a few weeks ago, the cast shadow of an object occurs when the path of light from the light source is interrupted or blocked. Shadows seldom fade out as shading does. Shading is actually on the object itself and again is depicted from how and where the light hits your object.
Shading allows you as the artist to distinctly indicate the surface shape of your object. Surface shapes are depicted by the contrast between shaded and highlighted areas. Shading fades gradually from light to dark. When shading, always be aware of the location of your light source.
The following surface shape shading ‘rules’ imagine that their is a fixed light source in the upper left corner that is coming down at an angle. These rules are foundational. They can be used like a formula for shading. Every object you render will have one or more of these surface shapes. Once you know them, you will be able to render any scene you want.
|
Flat
Shading occurs in lower right, fading as it moves to the upper left or toward the light source. Shading goes from edge to adjacent edge, perpendicular to the light source. On a flat surface, shading is straight across at a diagonal angle. Shading should fade to light or dark by about the halfway point. Regardless of the outline shape, the treatment of a flat surface is the same. Just moving from corner to opposite corner darkening or lightening as you go.
|
|
|
|
|
Half Round
To envision what this shape looks like, imagine a cucumber or carrot cut in half along the length. Shading occurs on both sides of the piece. The highlight area should be oriented along the top with the light source. The same treatment would be applied to a full pill shape. |
|
|
Cylindrical
You can think of something as big as a silo or small as a can of soup for this surface shape. In this case, shading occurs along both sides and gradually fades to light in the center. Take care not to make the highlight in the very center, but off to one side or the other slightly. This will make it look a little more natural. We use this cylindrical treatment when we paint pots, cans or bottles of any kind. * The shading on the top of this example is treated like a cone as if it was a silo. If the top of your cylinder is flat (like a coke can) then the top would be treated like the Flat surface shape above. |
|
|
Dome Shaped and Round
Shading occurs around the outer perimeter of the object. Your highlight area is upper left of center, oriented with the light source. This is like how we painted our lemons and eggs. |
|
|
Concave
This one is my favorite. The shading again occurs around the outside perimeter of the piece, but this time the highlight area is in the lower right of center. Use this in painting a wooden spoon, bowl or the inside of a cup. |
|
Ask yourself these questions when beginning a rendering:
Where is my light source?
What surface shape is my object?
Where does the light strike it?
Creating Surface Shapes using Watercolors
When creating shading with watercolors, I typically start by laying down my dark areas and using a clean brush loaded with water to blend the darks out into light highlights.
If you find while working on a scene that darker paint is needed to render your surface shapes, remember that you can layer colors by glazing and letting a layer dry first, or darkening a color by using more intensity of pigment (less water) or by using paynes gray, neutral tint, burnt umber or the complimentary color. Most often, using the complimentary color (opposite color on the color wheel) darkens a color in a more natural looking way.
How should you paint these techniques?
There are multiple "correct ways" to move the paint around to accomplish shading. It comes down to what feels the most comfortable for you.
Check out this excellent and simple video to see 3 different but effective approaches to accomplish shading by Mr. Otters Studio:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dz0-40t2l8
Where is my light source?
What surface shape is my object?
Where does the light strike it?
Creating Surface Shapes using Watercolors
When creating shading with watercolors, I typically start by laying down my dark areas and using a clean brush loaded with water to blend the darks out into light highlights.
If you find while working on a scene that darker paint is needed to render your surface shapes, remember that you can layer colors by glazing and letting a layer dry first, or darkening a color by using more intensity of pigment (less water) or by using paynes gray, neutral tint, burnt umber or the complimentary color. Most often, using the complimentary color (opposite color on the color wheel) darkens a color in a more natural looking way.
How should you paint these techniques?
There are multiple "correct ways" to move the paint around to accomplish shading. It comes down to what feels the most comfortable for you.
Check out this excellent and simple video to see 3 different but effective approaches to accomplish shading by Mr. Otters Studio:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dz0-40t2l8
Homework
For Homework
As your exercise for this week, we are going to practice mastering these 5 surface shapes.
As your exercise for this week, we are going to practice mastering these 5 surface shapes.
- - Get out 5 sheets of paper. They can each be 8x10" or 5x7"
- Enjoy whatever color you want to use. - - Practice painting the 5 surface shapes above by doing them 2 times each.
- Each surface shape gets painted twice on one piece of paper. - - You can get creative if you want, but make sure that each surface shape is represented.
For example for Flat, you could simply fill in a rectangle or circle (as I have in the examples above) or you could get fancy and paint a book, a box, a phone or anything with a flat smooth surface. - - To clarify, you should end up with 10 little practice paintings on 5 different pieces of paper
(2 practice sketches per surface shape.)